This is a speciality of Hanukkah, known as the Jewish Festival of Lights, which is celebrated in the kitchen by deep frying in oil. Of several fritters that I have tried, this French one originating in Alsace is the most scrumptious, because the apples are macerated in brandy, which gives them a most wonderful flavour, and the batter is very light.
Serves 4-8
tart or sweet apples 4 large
sugar 2-3 tbsp
calvados, brandy or rum 4 tbsp
eggs 2 large, separated
light vegetable oil 2 tbsp
salt a good pinch
flour 150g
water 200ml
lemon grated zest of 1
vegetable or sunflower oil for frying
caster sugar for sprinkling on after serving
Core and peel the apples and cut each into 4 thick slices. Put them in a shallow dish with the sugar and calvados, brandy or rum, and turn them so that they are well coated. Leave for at least 1 hour, turning the slices over occasionally so that they absorb the spirit.
For the batter, beat the egg yolks with the oil and salt, then stir in the flour and mix well. Now beat in the water gradually and vigorously, squashing any lumps. Leave for an hour, then fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites.
Heat at least 2cm of oil in a large frying pan. Dip the apple slices in the batter – about 5 at a time – making sure they are well covered with batter.
Lift each one out carefully and lower into the hot oil. The oil must be sizzling but not too hot, or the fritters will brown before the apple is soft inside.
Fry in batches, and turn the slices over to brown both sides. Lift out with a slotted palette and drain on kitchen paper before serving. Pass the caster sugar for everyone to sprinkle on.
Variations
You may use beer or milk instead of water for the batter.
Pass powdered cinnamon and sugar around for people to sprinkle on.
From The Book of Jewish Food (Penguin, £30). To order a copy for £26.10 go to guardianbookshop.com
