Just because a product is labeled “unscented,” that doesn’t mean it’s free of all natural or synthetic fragrance chemicals. “Unscented generally means that the product may contain chemicals that neutralize or mask the odors of other ingredients,” states the EPA’s Safer Choice Fragrance-Free fact sheet.
“Unscented,” in this respect, refers to the net result: The final product doesn’t have a distinct scent that most people would notice, but it may still include fragrance compounds.
Makers of such products usually formulate them by starting with main ingredients that have a mild scent, says Rita Kachru, MD, associate professor and section chief for clinical immunology and allergy at the David Geffen School of Medicine at UCLA. Then, masking agents are added to neutralize those scents. Common masking agents include benzyl alcohol, benzoate, citronellol, limonene (citrus), lanolin, and essential oils (vanilla, peppermint, citrus).
For example, an antiperspirant deodorant can be labeled as “unscented” and marketed toward sensitive skin, but the ingredient list can still include “fragrance,” “parfum,” or another synonym. If the fragrance was added to counteract the scent of the raw materials, the antiperspirant can be labeled as “unscented.” However, for people who are sensitive to fragrance, this antiperspirant may still cause a reaction. The type of fragrance isn’t always listed on a product’s label, so even people who are sensitive to only specific fragrances can’t be sure that the product won’t irritate them.
Take, as another example, a body lotion that’s labeled as “unscented.” While it may not include any ingredients marked as “fragrance” or “parfum,” if it doesn’t bear a “fragrance-free” label, it may still contain fragrance. In this case, you can read the ingredients and look for common masking agents like the ones we listed above, or use only clearly labeled fragrance-free lotions.
The bottom line: Unfortunately, even if you’ve been trying to avoid reactions to products by seeking out unscented ones, you might still be exposed to allergens and irritants. Instead, Tamara Lazic Strugar, MD, FAAD, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, recommends that people prone to allergies and sensitivities stick to fragrance-free products wherever possible.
